I used to hate going to the beach. Waves, sharks, jellyfish..., how could I love the place? Well, it has changed completely since I went to Hawaii 10 years ago and learned to surf there. Since the day I surfed for the first time at Temple Beach in Laie, Hawaii, surfing has become my life. Surfing has been the way I show appreciation towards and communicate with the mother nature.
This photograph is the place I surf in Japan. I love the scene with waves, sand, mountain, sunset, and the driftwood.
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